Thursday, March 17, 2011

Guatemala installment two-Churches and folklore

Antigua was the capital of Guatemala for many years-it was the third capital of the country, and remained the capital until a large earthquake flattened most of the city, which was subsequently abandoned for many, many years. As a result, the city is a step into the past, and littered with the ruins of what was once there.  The streets are all cobblestone, and walking though you might come upon a ruin located next to a store, a restaurant, or a hotel. I loved walking through the city and imagining what once was. The architecture is beautiful.


I don't know what all the churches are, but the city is littered with them-I believe my guide book said over 30 churches in the city before the earthquake.


The church above was on the corner of the block where our hotel was located the second week of my stay. I loved walking past it each day. The picture is taken from the roof of Ray's hotel, which is about four stories up and gave a great view of the city. Below is a picture taken looking at the church from street level.



This ruin was used for a wedding while we were in the city. There was a man dressed up as a footman with a horse drawn carriage covered in flowers waiting for the wedding to end. I was happy to see that even the ruins are made use of, and noticed that several things that were ruins ten years ago when I was in the city have been restored.



Another ruin, we passed this one on the way out of Antigua for our weekend in the mountains at the Earth Lodge.


This one had a Boy Scout crest on the door.


I believe this is the church that my host family went to-the family I lived with ten years ago when I was on a study abroad. I had lots of moments where I thought I remembered things, but the city has changed so much it was often hard to know what was accurate and what just looked familiar.



I definitely remember this pila (where the Guatemalan women come to do their laundry by hand). My teacher and I walked past it several times. Once when we were walking she told me the story of La Llorona (the crying woman). This woman, who was named Maria, was very beautiful. When she was young she had many suitors, and in spite of her poor family married a rich man. The first few years of their marriage were wonderful, and she bore him two sons. After the birth of her second child, however, he started to spend more and more time away from home. He still visited, but paid her little attention, and focused on the children when he was home. She took the boys for a walk along the river one day, and he passed in a carriage with an elegant looking woman as his companion. He stopped and talked to the children, but as usual ignored her then drove on. In a fit of rage, she threw her sons into the river. As her anger subsided, she realized what she had done, and raced down the river to find her children but was unsuccessful. She uttered mournful cries and continued to search the river for her children as the days passed. As people encountered her, they started calling her La Llorona, because of her constant cries. She grew thin, then emaciated, then skeleton-like as she could only pace the river bank wailing and looking for her lost children. Eventually, she herself died along the river bank, still searching for her sons. The legend tells that at nighttime near any body of water (including something as small as a pila), she can be heard wailing, and sometimes a gaunt figure in a white dress appears.

Sweet dreams!

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